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When assembling a roll of London’s finest restaurants, one might expect renowned Michelin-starred venues. But, tucked near the top among these gastronomic titans is a modest salonu found in a distant part of northern London.

An Unexpected Accolade

This compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. This recognition has left the proprietors totally surprised.

“I am completely shocked,” remarks the family member, pointing to his family’s dedication that led to their humble shop earning such a lofty ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has maintained much of its original character. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the fare, and this establishment definitely excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in gradually. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a richer, nuttier and more balanced taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can start at many times that amount.

The Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is most important is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy establishments. “I am really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s success is set to echo beyond its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this culinary honour.